Hailing from windy walleye country in Duluth, Minnesota, ol’ Bob was undoubtedly ahead of his time, as are many walleye anglers who’ve learned to sing the same tune. Wind: Bass anglers hate it, but walleye fishermen live by it, because in many cases, so do walleyes. Following an extended period of calm conditions, the leading edge of wind activates the lower end of the food chain. Building and sustained wind triggers larger predators to feed.

Wind blowing into the shallows disturbs the bottom, darkening the water and suspending tiny food particles for baitfish to feed on. Wind concentrates plankton along a shoreline, activates minnows, which in turn draws predators. Wave action diminishes light penetration, providing walleyes a feeding advantage over baitfish; schools of smaller fish typically live by eyesight, coordinating their movements as a unit until the water becomes too dark, dingy, and turbulent, whereupon they’re on their own, more vulnerable to predation. Walleyes, however, are able to see well in the dim setting and can navigate and locate prey through hearing and their lateral line, sensing vibrations amidst the turbulence.

Wind-generated current rings the dinner bell, akin to how changing tides activate ocean predators to forage in high-percentage feeding lanes created by current. During the peak of feeding activity, the action can be frantic and furious. Once it subsides, however, you’d hardly know the frenzy had ever occurred.

Locational Strategies

The basic principle when fishing wind is to fish spots receiving the brunt of the wind-generated current effect, providing you can do so safely. This primarily occurs in three types of areas: the downwind shoreline of the lake, the upwind ends of islands and shallow reefs, and the downwind side of current constrictions (narrows). These areas concentrate the effects of wind and waves and focus the impact of increased fish activity.

Waves pile up against a downwind shoreline, raising the water level, creating turbulence, and causing a reverse current flow along the bottom. This bosses and tosses around the local minnow and forage fish community. A short time after wind begins to build, walleyes are attracted into such areas— particularly on big windswept reservoirs where mudlines are created by wave action muddying a band of water along shore, and on prairie lakes where walleyes run baitfish up against shallow shoreline rocks.

On midlake reefs and islands, waves build against the upwind side of the obstruction, crashing into and washing over the top or around the sides. The primary impact is therefore felt atop the upwind crest of a reef, or upon prominent shallow (less than 7 or 8 feet, often as little as 3 or 4) points or boulders on the upwind side of a reef or island, which bears the brunt of the wind-generated current. That doesn’t suggest that fish never lie on the downwind end of a reef, because they occasionally do, perhaps relating to current flowing over the back end. But percentagewise, expect the primary focus of wind-generated activity to occur on the upwind side.

Wind blowing toward a narrows between two lake areas raises the water level as the constriction gathers and magnifies the force of the flow through the narrows. While some effect is seen on the upwind side, the rush of current flushing out the downcurrent end typically attracts the most walleyes. Fish appear to move up into the current from the downwind section of the lake, particularly at night. Interestingly, when the wind subsides or reverses direction, current generally flows back in the other direction, creating a similar effect at the opposite entrance to the narrows.

Wind Tactics

Proper application of wind tactics depends on a combination of several factors. First is safety; can you safely fish the area or are the waves too large and dangerous? Walleyes definitely bite in shallow water in giant waves, but it may not be advisable to tempt the fates in order to catch fish. Fortunately, in such conditions, the downwind sides of narrows are sheltered from the force of the wind itself, even while experiencing the full effect of current flow.

Second, how large is the area in question? Are the fish spread out, as along an expansive section of windblown shoreline? If so, longline trolling or fancasting tactics are most appropriate in order or cover an expanse of water. Or are they focused on specific small spots, like the crest of a reef, atop a small boulder pile, or on the end of an island? In this instance, casting to specific small, key spots usually is in order, perhaps while maneuvering the boat with a trolling motor, or perhaps more appropriately by casting from an anchored position, or even while walking or wading a shoreline.

Fancasting crankbaits—Cranks are among your most versatile presentations for covering water in windy conditions. Fortunately, shallow-running minnow-imitators are ideal for shallow water, or for running above the tops of weeds. Problem is, however, that many walleye cranks are so lightweight, particularly balsa models, that they’re difficult to cast into the wind. Neutrally buoyant minnow-imitators are a bit heavier and therefore easier to cast. They dive when retrieved, then hover at rest to tempt following fish.

When casting reefs where you need to reach a bit deeper, shad-imitating crankbaits that dive from 3 to 5 or 5 to 7 feet, depending on lip size, are dynamic choices. Cast ‘em out, crank ‘em back slowly, with an occasional pause. It’s OK to bang bottom a little, although active walleyes surging through turbulent water will hammer free-swimming lures. Match the primary forage—like silvery patterns for shiners or shad, perch patterns for perch.

When casting lightweight, wind-resistant crankbaits in windy conditions, it’s best to use a long, 7' to 7' 6" medium-power spinning rod, spooled with 8- to 10-pound mono, or 10- to 14-pound superline to enhance casting distance. Heavier lines or casting reels simply do not facilitate casting light lures into the wind.

Fancasting jigs—Jigs can be equally productive in windy conditions, and being less wind-resistant, they’re easier to cast if you need to throw upwind, such as from shore into the teeth of a gale. Almost any jighead will do, likely somewhere around 1/4 to 3/8 ounce, dressed with a fairly substantial plastic shad body or a 4- to 5-inch grub; you need a substantial target to help fish locate the bait, and if they’re up shallow, they’re likely aggressive enough to nail a large lure. No need to do the slow crawl, pause, hop, pause routine; shallow fish should be chasers, so a semi-swimming retrieve should produce. Fish it on similar tackle to what you’d use to cast cranks. Longer rods equate to longer casts.

Drifting with bottom bouncers, spinners, and nightcrawlers—A substantial wind blowing roughly parallel to (although somewhat into) a long stretch of shoreline is conducive to drifting the area with bottom bouncer-spinner-nightcrawler combos. Simply turn the boat sideways, lower your rigs over the upwind side, let out enough line for the bouncer to skip along bottom, and go. It’s a predominant tactic on the wind-blown plateau impoundments of the central and western prairies, with applications on large natural lakes with a heritage of windy walleye activity. Once the wind subsides, consider forward trolling the same rigs, using a bowmount electric motor for propulsion and control. A 6 1⁄2- to 7-foot, medium-power casting rod with 10-pound mono is perfect.

Longline trolling crankbaits—This is an easy tactic for trolling along windy shorelines, snake trolling (weaving) across adjacent shallow weedflats or scouring the tops of long or expansive reefs, typically with minnow-imitating crankbaits or shallow- to medium-diving shad baits. Absolutely nothing fancy about it. Select a lure model that dives to the approximate target depth to scratch the shallowest point on the reef or tick the tops of the tallest weeds. Let out a modest 75 to 100 feet of line and start slowly trolling forward, just fast enough to wobble the lure. If you hang up, shorten your line. If you never hang, try a longer line to reach a tad deeper. To make a shallow minnow-imitator run a bit deeper, add a split shot or two to the line about two feet ahead of the lure.

Slowly troll across your target area, using either the outboard in substantial wind and waves or an electric in moderate wind to calm conditions. Hold the rod, giving it an occasional pump forward, then dropping the rod tip back, to make the lure surge and then pause; change helps trigger following fish. Use the same spinning tackle as for casting cranks, or a long-handled casting rod suitable for trolling, loaded with about 10-pound test.

Anchoring with slipbobbers, jigs, and leeches—In big wind and waves, the object is to avoid snagging your lure or bait on shallow boulders or other cover, not necessarily to be subtle. Use a standard slipfloat with a bit of bulk to handle the waves, and set your bobber stop to dangle the bait somewhere near bottom. Walleyes definitely will strike a bait tossed around off bottom, so you don’t necessarily have to position your bobber stop too precisely. In fact, the bobber and bait will jump up and down as each passing wave crests and falls. If the float lies down occasionally, it means that the bait’s momentarily dragging bottom, which slows its drift if snags aren’t too bad.

In dingy water, switch from a standard plain hook and split-shot rigging to a 1/32-ounce fluorescent orange or chartreuse jighead. The added bit of color helps fish spot the bait amidst the turbulence. Hook a jumbo leech through or just behind the sucker for a tasty, tempting target.

Use a long spinning rod (7 to 9 feet or longer) spooled with 4- to 6-pound monofilament to effectively cast and control lightweight floats in big wind. Anchor on the upwind side of a spot, cast the float rig out to the side, and let it drift downwind until it reaches and passes the prime area. Multiple casts and drifts cover the spot. When you get a strike, point the rod at the float and reel any up wind-caused slack until the line tightens and you feel resistance. Then gingerly sweep the rod upward to bury the small, sharp hook.

In calm conditions when walleyes tend to be spookier, use a skinny bobber’s subtle and precise characteristics to tease reluctant biters from amidst the crevices between boulders. Cast, twitch, and pause the bobber, imparting occasional movement to the livebait, in addition to its inherent lively action.

When anchored, you can also try casting crankbaits or jigs. If walleyes are moving in and out of the area, passing waves of aggressive fish may slam lures. But if the spot is tiny, it’s hard to beat a slipfloat. It’s dead on target for extended periods, rather than wasting time with your lure in the air.

Wind. Waves. Walleyes. A golden oldie dating back to yesteryear. Same old song. Same familiar lyrics. Same right answer—blowin’ in the wind.