Raindrops collide with the kitchen window and fall like little rivers down the pane as water vapor on the inside condenses against the cold surface of the glass. Inside, two contemporary alchemists mix and stir a concoction of vinyl chloride and coloring in a saucepan on the stove. Once the goo is heated to the correct temperature, they take the pot and run to the basement of their Akron, Ohio, house. There they pour the thick material into open cavity molds resembling earthworms. After many months of experimentation with different forms of plastic, the two have finally found a way to turn lead into gold.

In The Beginning

Origins of the plastic worm, as we know it today, occurred just this way in the kitchen of Nick and Cosma Creme in the late 1940s. Nick Creme, unhappy with the texture of the “rubber” worms available at the time, set out to develop a new lure that not only looked real but also felt real. Fortuitously, a chemical called polyvinyl chloride was being developed in laboratories around Akron, and Nick received samples of this material to experiment with. By 1951, the Cremes were selling their worms by mail order, hustling to keep up with demand.

In the late 1960s, injection-molded plastics hit the market. Unlike hand-poured baits, these plastic lures were rounded, lacking the trademark flat side of hand-poured baits. But injection molding meant that plastics could be produced faster and cheaper, thus greater availability. Sales of hand-poured plastics fell.

The Western Renaissance of Hand-Poured Plastics

Southern California bass fishing inspired new interest in hand-poured plastics in the late 1960s and early 1970s. In the small reservoirs of San Diego County, men like “Lunker” Bill Murphy and Rip Nunnery were catching huge bass on 12- to 16-inch worms poured by Dave DeLong. The introduction of Florida bass had started a blitz of giant bass, and it didn’t take long for other fishermen in the area to realize the benefits of such plastics.

Although anyone could go into a tackle shop at that time and buy Creme and DeLong worms, most people were not content with baits so commonly available. At about this time, Don Iovino, a local guide and tournament fisherman, contacted a couple named Jim and Carol Smith who had been manufacturing a bait called the “Tally Wacker,” a soft plastic shrimp-like bait used in the Pacific Ocean to catch calico bass and sand bass. The Smiths and Iovino developed a series of worm styles and colors for use in the lakes around Southern California.

Why the West?

Although probably other people have been hand pouring worms all over the US since the Cremes started their company in the 1950s, the West, particularly Southern California, has been at the forefront of this cottage industry. The reason lies in part with the deep clear waters of this region, coupled with the intense fishing pressure these small reservoirs receive.

Few large manufacturers of plastic were making the minute finesse type baits that had become popular in the region. Hand-poured products catered to this fancy. Anglers also wanted plastics that were softer than injection-molded baits and that were available in more subtle colors. They found all these attributes in hand-pours.

Not long after Jim Smith (Smitty) gained popularity within the circle of local bass anglers, two other local anglers, Al Numora and Joe Heathcoat, began marketing their lines of plastics to a few local tackle shops. Their baits came in unique colors and styles that hadn’t been seen before. The western hand-pour industry was born.

By the early 1980s, more and more anglers were buying equipment and materials to pour their own baits. By pouring, anglers felt they had an advantage over their competition in that they could make plastics no other anglers had, while also matching colors to specific forage in each lake. Increasing interest in pouring led to an increase in hand-pour companies.

No longer was it just Smitty and the others in the Los Angeles area. Companies like AA (San Diego), CB and Zank’s (West Valley), and Western Plastics (Bakersfield) started popping up all over the Southland. Every reputable tackle shop in Southern California offered hand-poured baits, mostly from local companies.

Although hand-pour companies were growing in number, competition wasn’t a problem. Most small companies supplied a few shops in their areas, and the company owners relied on pouring to pay for their fishing while keeping their day jobs.

The Word Spreads

In contrast to the advertising campaigns of large tackle companies, the hand-pour industry relied on word of mouth. As anglers started traveling from the Southland to fish other parts of the West, they introduced anglers to these special soft plastics. By the late 1980s and early 1990s, hand-poured plastics could be found throughout the western states. While western fishermen were reaping the rewards of these lures, few anglers in the rest of the country had heard of, let alone fished, a hand-poured bait.

It wasn’t until the late 90s that hand-poured baits started to get much national recognition. Touring pros from the West Coast were finishing high in national tournaments, and they revealed some of their secrets. Others heard about the baits in western fishing magazines. Another boost came with the internet. Major companies like Iovino Products, SnakeBite Custom Fishing Tackle, Robo Worms, and Western Plastics opened websites. At first, sales to central, southern, and eastern anglers weren’t as brisk as in the west, but the word was getting out. Now, an Internet search for “Hand Pours” reveals a multitude of companies.

Hand Pouring How-To

Hand pouring differs from injection molding in several ways. Unlike large injection molds with up to 200 cavities, hand-pour molds generally have fewer than four cavities. The cavities are filled one at a time, instead of all at once, increasing the time to make the baits. Increased labor makes hand-poured baits more expensive than their injected cousins, with prices for most hand-poured baits running from $3 to $4 for a pack of ten.

There’s an upside to lower-capacity molds, however. Injection molds have two sides. The molds are filled with plastic under pressure and allowed to cool. Once the plastic has set, the molds are separated and the lures removed.

Because the mold has to be split to remove the baits, the plastic used must be of a harder consistency than what is used for hand-poured baits. Hand-pour molds are open cavity molds, and plastic is poured into the mold without pressure. The plastic is allowed to cool and can be easily pulled without fear of the bait ripping.

Another advantage of hand-poured baits is the ability to produce an infinite array of colors. It’s not uncommon for companies to make a bait with a combination of up to four colors. Most companies also offer custom color options for a minimum order.

Pouring Equipment and Materials

In the early years, most pourers used hot plates and ladles to pour plastics. A small saucepan was heated and a dye added to the mix. Once the plastic reached melting temperature, it was ladled into the open-cavity mold.

In the mid 1970s, Lee Precision started making pouring pots specifically for plastic. The pots are similar to those used to make leadhead jigs and bullet weights, but run at much lower temperatures. These pots offer far better control of the plastic—in temperature control and control of the pouring stream, important in producing fine baits.

Until the 1990s, pots and ladles were the mainstay of pouring equipment. That was until Gregg Stump, originator of the Robo Worm, automated the process. Using computer-aided robotics, Stump developed a process that requires only heating plastic, mixing colors, and pulling the baits from the molds. The pouring is done completely by robotics.

Materials for pouring plastic begin with the polyvinyl chloride plastic. Before heating, the plastic is in a “monomer emulsion state” that looks like milk. Upon heating to about 340°F, the vinyl chloride in the mix reacts to form long chains of molecules (it polymerizes). In the polymerized form, the plastic becomes clear. After complete reaction of the plastic, dyes made specifically for this type of plastic can be added. Or glitter can be used for baits with more flash.

The single-sided molds used for hand pouring are made of acrylic and RTV silicon. RTV silicon has been accepted as the standard, due to its long life, ability to withstand high temperatures, and resistance to breakage. Some larger manufacturers use molds machined of aluminum, a costly avenue for the do-it-your-selfer.

Pouring

Plastic from either a bottom-loading pot, like those Lee Precision makes, or from a ladle, is poured into the mold so a slight bulge appears in the plastic above the cavity. This ensures that as the plastic cools and sets, the bottom of the worm doesn’t become concave. By slightly overfilling, the worm has a bottom that is slightly rounded.

For two- or three-color baits, at least two pots of plastic are needed. Fill the mold halfway with the first color and then finish with the second color. Make sure that when pouring two- or three-color baits that the plastic from the first pour is still molten when pouring the second color. If not, the two colors will not laminate together and may fall apart.

Mixing Colors

Unless the home pourer wants clear baits, he must add color. Dyes used must be specifically for PVC, as food coloring or other dyes result in disaster. Plastic dyes can be purchased from any company that sells pouring materials. All pourers who take their business seriously log each color formula they come up with to be able to repeat a color. Also, many colors on the market today are a combination of two or more colors.

Mixing colors can take place either before or after the plastic is heated. When first developing a color, though, mix the coloring a little at a time into the hot plastic. This allows for pouring a sample bait to test its coloration.

Once a pourer becomes efficient at mixing colors, there’s no bait on the market that cannot be color matched. In over 20 years of pouring, I’ve only had two colors that have stumped me. Just keep good notes, and you’re on your way.

Glitter and Iridescent Powders

The addition of glitter to plastic adds flash. Make sure to use only poly glitters in making plastics, as metal flake will burn and bleed into the plastic. These glitters also can be purchased at the companies listed at the end of this article.

Titanium-oxide-based powders can add an attractive twist to the coloration. These powders, used mainly in the cosmetic industry, found their way into hand-poured worms in the early 1980s. They add an iridescent sheen to a bait that mimics the iridescence of many preyfish.

Scent and Salt

Scent and salt also may be added. Make sure the scents are oil based, not alcohol or water based, as alcohol or water create a foamy reaction, ruining plastic due to the low boiling point of these materials. Salt, on the other hand, can be added to baits before they cool in the mold. The problem is that most of the salt stays on the surface of the bait and washes off on the first few casts.

Production

Production speed depends on experience and equipment. A beginner with ladles, a couple molds, and hot plates can expect to pour no more than a few dozen worms an hour. An experienced pourer, on the other hand, using pots and many molds can manufacture up to several hundred baits an hour, depending on the size of the bait.

Hazards of Pouring

Similar to working with most chemicals, consider hazards when hand pouring. First and foremost is the toxicity of PVC fumes. Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid breathing these fumes. PVC slowly volatizes at pouring temperatures.

Even if you can’t see smoke, PVC fumes are in the air around you. The best solution is to make a small fume hood for your pouring. Place a small bathroom fan above your pots, ******* out the fumes, and vent to the outside. This also keeps the smell of the plastic out of your working areas.

When using a fume hood, be sure to check regularly for flow restrictions. After prolonged pouring, the PVC fumes will condense in the ducts and dust will accumulate. Clogged ducts are a fire hazard.

A second major hazard are burns. Because the plastic is heated to 340°F, take care that it doesn’t splatter on your skin. First-degree, and more often, second-degree burns will result.

Cost

If you like to tinker, pouring plastics isn’t difficult. You need some liquid PVC, molds, coloring, glitters, and melting pots, all of which can be bought for less than $300. When you start, expect some waste as you get used to pouring and mixing colors, but catching a fish on something you’ve made can be fun and rewarding. n

*Terry Battisti, Idaho Falls, Idaho, is a chemical engineer who grew up in California during the renaissance of hand-poured plastics. He also owns SnakeBite Custom Fishing Tackle (208/822-6160) and is an avid tournament angler.