Size And Shape vs. Application

Foremost among walleye applications are the many forms of jigging with livebait, artificial dressings, and artificial-livebait combos. No other system is so eminently versatile—cast to the extreme shallows, drift across flats, probe cover, and vertically plumb extreme depths—all by simply matching jighead size (weight) and shape to conditions.

A jighead is, basically, a hunka-chunka lead (or environmentally friendly substitute) molded around a hook, with sufficient weight to sink its dressing somewhere from slow and subtle to an all-out crash dive into the abyss. “We caught ‘em on 3/8-ounce jigs and minnows!”—a common report—meaning a jig heavy enough to take the bait down and keep it down in the fish zone.

Beyond the basics, however, a range of subtleties involving head shape remain somewhat of a mystery to anglers. Think of it this way: Weight predominantly determines sink rate, but shape determines specific performance, as does placement of the hookeye and other design factors.

Don’t initially be fooled by a jighead’s glitter and glamour; elements like color pattern(s) and eyes are but frosting on the cake. The essential part of the recipe is selecting the basic package of size and shape to function properly in the prevailing situation. After that, fine-tune the fluff to improve its appeal to walleyes.

Head Shape vs. Function

Once predominantly pretied with feathers or hair, plain jigheads today are available in abundance, lending themselves to use in component systems when dressed with plastic tails, livebait, or both. Mix and match to enhance effectiveness, using the following guidelines.

Round—Roundhead jigs are arguably the most versatile head style. The hookeye exits the top of the head, in excellent position for vertical presentations, and the round shape minimizes water resistance in current or when trolling. Roundheads also work well on a cast and retrieve, although the head tends to hang up in weeds; errant strands of growth can become caught at the intersection of the hook eye and the top of head.

The classic roundhead has a short collar of lead surrounding the hook shank. Thread a plastic grub onto the hook shank and slide it onto the collar to help hold it in place; barbed collars offer an even firmer grip to plastic. A ball or livebait head (no collar) enables you to thread a minnow directly up against the head (tight, compact package), whereas a collar usually positions the minnow a bit farther behind the head (larger, floppier appearance).

Modified Round—altered versions of traditional roundheads often feature a barbed collar for use with a plastic dressing, although they also can be teamed with livebait. Gopher’s flat-backed Mushroom Jig tucks plastic tails tight to the jighead. Bait Rigs’ versatile “eyeless” Odd’Ball jig can be rigged normally (plastic tail threaded onto the hook), Texas-style (with plastic tucked into curvature in jighead), with livebait, or as a combo.

River/Aspirin—This traditional head style is relatively flat in a vertical plane, causing it to slice down into the water. It sinks quickly and is excellent in current. Hookeye on top for vertical presentations.

Minnow/Darter/Teardrop—These are pointier versions of the original perfection style, typically with a barbed collar or screwlock arrangement to be used with plastic grubs. Hookeye on top.