Rig Options for River Walleyes

Crankbaits -- Undoubtedly the most underused though superb three-way option for rivers. Cranks that are run behind a three-way swivel wiggle and wobble in current, even when the sinker is at rest in an anchored position. Troll upstream, and they go nuts in the current. They also perform well for trolling downstream; move along slightly faster than the current to make the bait wiggle. From an anchored position, a crankbait will wobble in place if current is sufficient.

Shallow-diving cranks, notably minnow- imitators, excel for rivers. Perhaps lengthen the dropper slightly to accommodate the diving depth of the lure, which won't be more than a few inches on a short leader. Perhaps shorten the leader slightly to prevent the lure from diving and snagging bottom. Rig accordingly.

You might assume that large or gaudy crankbaits would work best in dark water, but small to medium minnow-imitators (2 to 4 inches) tend to produce best, particularly if the fish are a bit inactive. Color or forage patterns? Match the forage in clear water -- silver for smelt or shad, perch for perch. Go gaudy in darker water -- visible fire tiger or clown. Experiment between subtle balsa baits and more aggressive plastic models with internal rattles.

Spinner Rigs -- Used somewhat by river trollers, particularly when they anchor in strong current or troll upstream. When moving downcurrent, however, spinners lose rotation, droop, and sometimes tangle with the dropper. Seldom a good shorecasting rig for the same reasons. Limit their use to conditions when blade rotation is assured. Bright colors -- orange, chartreuse -- are best in most dingy river conditions.

Streamer Flies -- Pretty much the same as with minnows lip-hooked on a plain hook, except with fur and feathers rather than fins. A streamer fly rides level behind the swivel, swerving and dancing like a minnow in the current flow. A relatively subtle option, perhaps best in clear water. Squirt on a little scent to spice up the offering.

Plastic Tails -- Achieve a similar effect with a plastic grub or tube tail on a plain hook. More action, color, bulk, profile, and flotation than a fly.

Trolling -- Trolling works best with an artificial lure that wobbles or spins in the current; use current to your advantage. Crankbaits wiggle in place when you hover, vibrate madly when you troll upcurrent. Note whether fish prefer an upstream, aggressive wobble; a subtle hover; or even trolling downcurrent (moving swiftly enough to wiggle, not throb the lure).

Drifting -- While not considered a primary three-way technique in current, nothing says you can't simply drift along with the flow, lifting the sinker on and off bottom. This tactic works best with a floater rig and minnow, since rigs moving at the same speed as the current fail to significantly rotate spinner blades or wobble crankbaits. A floating jighead, however, suspends the bait. Even a minnow lip-hooked on a plain hook droops down and is less effective than when held in a stationary position.

Moving downstream, a heavy weight might trail behind you. Consider switching to a lighter sinker and using the thrust of your outboard or electric motor to slow your drift, causing the three-way rig to swing downcurrent from the boat, placing water resistance on the bait or lure, rather than simply dragging it downstream. Tap your way along as you drift down to the front side of a wingdam.

Anchoring -- Probably the most popular three-way technique among boaters, particularly during peak spawning runs when waves of walleyes, white bass, or other fish pass through prime spots like eddies. Anchor a short distance upstream of your target, noting that the weighted rig will swing downstream before coming to rest. When fishing in a crowd of boats, anchor along a prime lane of fish passage and wait. Lower your rig to bottom, using a sufficiently heavy sinker to keep it relatively near your boat, not under someone else's boat.

Shorecasting -- Perhaps the second most popular use for three-way rigs on rivers. Bank fishermen most often toss a weighted rig out into the river and let it soak there. Since shorecasters lack the mobility of boat anglers, they want to cast a long distance and keep the rig in place on the bottom, which requires substantial sinker weight. Most use a plain hook baited with a lip-hooked or tail-hooked minnow. A floating jighead tipped with a minnow also is an excellent option.

Excessive line in current creates a bow, particularly when cast across the flow, rather than downstream. To retain the best control, tighten your line as much as possible, minimizing the amount of line making contact with the current. Place the rod in a rod holder, lean it across a forked stick stuck in the mud, or hold the rod tip upright, with a slight bend in the rod tip. Even a light bite will make the rod tip bob up and down, indicating the strike. A reel with a clicker feature betrays line moving out when a fish hits. Or loop a rubber band around the line just forward of your rod tip to further indicate line moving out under a strike.

Pier Fishing -- Allows a blend of tactics employed when anchoring and shorecasting. As with shorecasting, toss a three-way rig along a current break or into the heart of an eddy, and let it sit -- the old soak-and-wait routine. As with anchoring, simply lean your rod tip over the railing, lower a three-way rig to bottom, and let it soak in place. The current will wiggle and wobble your offering, even if the sinker isn't moving. And similar to fishing from a boat, walk around the edge of the pier while lift-dropping your three-way on and off bottom; foot trolling, as it were.

Afoot or afloat, three-ways are indeed versatile systems not to be taken lightly; use sufficient weight to keep the rig in place in the current. And don't overcomplicate their use. They get your bait down and stable in current. What could be more effective?