Deadly Revival

When most anglers hear the name Castaic Lake, grandiose visions arise of giant swimbaits sashaying through the water, pursued by record-class bucketmouths. Though that thought is legitimate, what many outside the southern Cal bass scene fail to realize is that Castaic was the birthplace of one of the most important finesse techniques ever—the split-shot rig.

The term birthplace may be a stretch, since lead shot pinched on the line had been used to catch bass for years prior to the advent of what we now call finesse techniques. Still, when one examines the technique—thin line, light rod, small hooks, and miniature plastics—there’s no doubt it was revolutionary in its development.

The late Richard Trask is credited with developing the rig to trick Castaic’s bass, highly pressured even back then. Split-shottin’ had its heyday in the late 1970s and early ’80s, eventually spreading across the nation in the 1990s. But with the advent of the drop-shot rig, the technique drifted into obscurity.

Oldies but Goodies

The fishing world counts a number of recent rebirths of significance. Resurrection of the square-bill crankbait is one example, as new lures seek to emulate the ancient Big O. Also, the Texas-rigged worm has returned, as evidenced by its success at the 2008 Bassmaster Elite Series tournament on Falcon Lake in Texas.

What these two techniques have in common is that they both lost popularity, possibly due to a combination of fish conditioning and the development of newer, more effective techniques. When reintroduced by a few savvy anglers, they’ve proven as valuable as in the past. The split-shot rig, with its storied history, is in this same category.

The Basic Rig

The beauty of the split-shot rig lies in its simplicity. A straight-shank worm hook tied to 6-pound-test line, a #4 to #2 round shot set 24 to 48 inches above the hook, an appropriate rod and reel for the light line, and a 4-inch worm. That’s it.

But let’s drill down deeper and discuss ways to maximize your catch with this rig. As this is a light-line technique, tackle choice is extremely important. First, the rod must be capable of setting the hook with line in the 6-pound range without fear of breaking the line. Rods from 61⁄2 to 71⁄2 feet, rated medium- to extra-fast action and with a minimum line rating of 4- to 6-pound test, generally fill the bill. Longer rods act as shock absorbers against sudden boatside dives, and help set the hook at long range.

Veteran split-shotters select spinning reels with smooth drags and larger-than-normal spool diameters. A smooth drag, when set properly, minimizes break-offs and hook pulls that can plague anglers with sticky drags. Large spool diameter helps minimize coiling for better line control and longer casts.

Historically, there was little choice in line except for color, as monofilaments ruled. Ardent split-shot anglers swore by the advantages of green lines to help camouflage their presentation. Now, braids and fluorocarbons greatly broaden the options, and selection depends on what you’re trying to accomplish.

To keep the lure gliding above bottom, a limp monofilament is still the number one choice. Some new braids in the 10- to 16-pound-test range work, with a section of monofilament tied to the braid using a double uni-knot. A leader reduces line visibility and lead shot grips mono better than braid.

For anglers targeting bottom-­oriented bass, fluorocarbon line is hard to beat. Not only does fluoro offer low visibility, it sinks, giving the angler more direct contact with the lure and greater sensitivity. Limper brands, like Spiderwire Ultracast 100% Fluorocarbon, behave better, particularly if spools are not filled completely.

Terminal Tackle

Originally developed to present small baitfish-colored worms to Castaic’s shad-centric bass, the hook had to be light wire to keep baits above bottom as much as possible. Aberdeen-style was about the only hook to fill the niche at the time. Though it worked in most cases, Aberdeens lacked the strength to hold a big bass, or the keeper barbs to secure softbaits at the hook eye.

Hook options have increased and several manufacturers now offer hooks ideal for split-shottin’. They’re built of thin-gauge wire, with keeper barbs to hold softbaits firmly at the eye, and are forged for strength.

Long-shank O’Shaughnessy-style hooks like Gamakatsu’s Light Wire Worm Hook, or those with keeper barbs, such as the ReBarb from Robo Worm, are ideal for worms and grubs 4 inches or longer. These hooks allow an angler to rig a bait weedless, while the hook shank acts as a keel to minimize line twist.

Kahle-style hooks such as Eagle Claw’s Lazer Sharp L144, Mustad’s Ultra Point 37753 NPNP, or Gama-katsu’s Split Shot Hook also work well for rigging leeches, minnows, and other small baits that lose action when hooked Texas-style on a long-shank hook. Run the point up through the head or nose of the bait, leaving the body free to move. Because the hook’s exposed, it’s best suited for areas with little or no brush.