Neutrally buoyant, shallow-running minnowbaits, like a Storm Suspending ThunderStick or Rapala Husky Jerk, also produce in the shallows. The classic retrieve with a suspending minnowbait is a sweep-pause—making the lure roll and turn. Try starting with your rod tip pointed down toward the water straight in front of you, then sharply draw the lure deeper by reeling two or three cranks. Next, immediately sweep the rod tip down and off to one side, followed by a pause while reeling up slack as you return the rod tip to the starting position in front of you. Experiment with the length of the pause.

Bigger cranks work when bigger forage is active near structure. Some of the most effective cranks for working deeper structure are thin, shad-shaped baits. In fall, for instance, ciscoes migrate onto reefs to spawn. Rapala’s ShadRap, ShadRap RS, or new Jointed Shad Rap get deep fast and represent a cisco’s profile. The RS Shad and Jointed Shad Rap are heavier, which makes them easier to cast on a spinning or casting rod. When small 1- to 3-year-old perch are abundant, a #5 or #7 perch-pattern Shad Rap would be the right call. Other cranks like Rapala’s Deep Down Husky Jerk, Reef Runner’s Deep Diver, and Mann’s Stretch (5+ or 10+) also produce.

Use a long rod (6 1⁄2 to 7 feet), wide-spooled reel, and 8- to 10-pound line for long casts and precise depth control. Combine the longer rod with a slightly oversized spinning reel to add casting distance. Many anglers use superline, like Berkley FireLine, to increase casting distance, hooksetting power, and diving depth. Superline also allows direct contact with (better feel of) a lure.

Trolling—Longline trolling cranks along the edges of rocks can produce. At night or on windy days, windswept shorelines or reefs as shallow as 3 to 4 feet can be the ticket. Riprap and causeways also are potential trolling spots.

Longlining is the basis for covering lots of water fairly quickly (not rapidly), with some efficiency. Minnow-imitating lures, like a Storm ThunderStick or a Rapala Floating Minnow, are popular for trolling shorelines and reefs.

Use a medium-power, fast-taper baitcasting rod ranging between 61⁄2 and 9 feet, and reels spooled with either 8- to 12-pound mono or 14- to 20-pound superline. Let out the correct line length to place lures at the proper depth. Some situations require up to 150 feet of line, while other crankbaits and varied situations—like shallow boulders—call for less than 75 feet of line, depending on depth and cover.

Most anglers typically troll between one and two mph, which is still relatively slow, but significantly faster than casting jigs or crankbaits, or rigging with livebait. Make several passes while contour trolling reefs or shorelines, over different depths. In a few hours, it’s possible to longline troll large sections of water.

The key to effectively trolling dam or causeway areas is to stagger lines and lures at different depths to cover the sloping face. Select lures that run at a different range of diving depths. Troll the shallowest version closest to the dam, staggering deeper-running baits farther out.

On the line closest to the shoreline, for instance, longline troll a shallow-running minnow-imitator. Then use a slightly deeper-running lure on the opposite side of the boat; considering the slope of the rock face and the lure’s running depth to reach near or occasionally tick the bottom. Occasional lure contact with the bottom is fine, but avoid pounding lures—sooner or later you’ll snag in rocks.

Whether you cast or troll cranks, suspend leeches or minnows below floats, or toss a split-shot livebait rig, they’re all good producers on rocks. To make your rocky relationship with walleyes a good one, the key is to get out there and start poking around. Then let the fish tell you what they want and how they want it.