Small roundhead jigs in the 1/64- to 1/16-ounce range also are ideal for working a leech or a half-crawler over rocks. “I like using a 1/32-ounce Northland Gum-Ball jig,” Samson says. “I actually set the stop so the light jig drags right on bottom, working the bait right on the rocks. Oh, you’ll snag ever so often, but most times, especially in big waves, the float lifts and moves the jig up and over rocks without snagging.

“The key is to work active fish. Fish seem to move in and out of the area, or up and down the reef. Most anglers tend to throw the anchor, then sit and wait for fish to move in,” Samson explains. “But when it seems the fish quit biting, I don’t just sit there; I move. You never know when walleyes will move up and feed, so it’s important to stay positive and keep checking spots, even if that means checking the same spot three times throughout the day.”

Split-shot rigging—Split-shot rigging is a finesse presentation that’s fairly snag resistant, making it a top livebait presentation for casting or drifting livebait over rocks. On windy days, drifting a rock reef lengthwise, using split-shot rigs is a good option, especially if the wind direction allows you to drift key depths. Anchoring and casting the rig allows for slowly retrieving the bait over rock.

The key is to balance minimal tackle to conditions. Spinning gear, like a 6- to 61⁄2-foot medium to medium-light-action rod coupled with a spinning reel spooled with 4- to 6-pound mono is sufficient. Depending on bait type and size, use #4 to #8 ultrasharp hooks. If you’re using leeches, for instance, a #8 allows the bait to swim. With a larger minnow, a #4 is a better match.

Place split shot 8 to 18 inches ahead of the hook to give minnows, crawlers, and leeches room to wiggle and swim. Play with the weight, based on wind and depth, in order to swing the bait along close to bottom.

When drifting, position the boat sideways with a drift sock to cover a wider swath, using an electric trolling motor to keep the boat positioned over key depths. Let out just enough line to barely touch bottom as you slowly cruise along. Then wind up a turn or two to keep the bait skimming just above bottom.

From an anchored position on the upwind side, simply cast the rig over the rocks, keep your rod tip up, and slowly retrieve the bait. When you contact bottom, twitch the bait to work it up and over rocks, and reel in any slack line. Because spit-shotting is such a lightweight finesse presentation, fish often inhale the bait so all you feel most times is extra weight. When you do, reel toward the fish until your rod tip is pointing at the bait, and when you feel tension, sweep the rod tip back and begin reeling for high-percentage hooksets.

Crankbaiting Options

The right crankbait fished the right way may actually hang up less than jigs or rigs, and walleyes working rocks easily can home in on vibrations and sound. Crankbaits allow anglers to cover the entire reef much faster than with other tactics. Different crankbaits also dive to predictable running depths. So by selecting the right crankbait to match conditions, you’re able to simulate baitfish and avoid snags.

The key is to get deep-diving cranks down fast, near the structure, so the bait is in the strike zone during most of the retrieve. Retrieves that bounce and bang off rocks create noise and stir up bottom sediment, which seem to catch more walleyes than retrieves that make no contact.

Shallow-diving minnow-imitators that run 1 to 5 feet below the surface are ideal for working the shallows, particularly at night. During the day, select lures that dive sufficiently deeper to occasionally bang bottom. Fancast lures like a Rapala Countdown or Floating Minnow toward shorelines. Walleyes typically hold deeper and tighter to bottom or cover during the day, though faster retrieves can be used.