Size And Shape vs. Application

Jig Head Design

Dave Csanda
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Fulcrum—A unique, horizontally flat head with a top eye position, designed to fall slowly, then angle downward in current, yet slide across shallow river bottoms without snagging.

 

Insertion—These long, thin heads typically are used with plastic baits (chiefly for tubes, but some for grubs). Weight distribution of the long body shape makes them tend to swim and glide despite the predominantly top hookeye position. Popular for subtle presentations in the shallows, or when fish are striking falling lures in deeper water.

 

Airplane/Flyer—Used predominantly by ice anglers seeking lake trout. When vertically jigging, then pausing, a wide-winged airplane jig swims in circles below the hole. Could be used when anchored (not in current).

 

Propeller—Adds flash and vibration to the jigging package, good for added visibility and attraction in dirty water, and to show the fish “something different” on heavily-fished waters.

 

Spinner—Same basic principle as propeller, except in a slightly different manner.

 

Rattle—Additional sound alerts fish to the lure’s presence and offers another triggering mechanism.

 

Popular Size (Weight) Ranges

 

Perhaps more 1/4- and 3/8-ounce jigs are sold and used for walleyes than all other sizes combined. Why? Because they suit average conditions, most of the time. Most folks fish a jig vertically in modest depths, which these jig weights match well.

 

When you move outside average conditions, however, selections change. Obviously, fishing in deep water requires additional weight to sink the package and hold it in place despite water resistance, current, and motion. Heavy—1/2, 5/8, even 3/4, and 1 ounce—round, perfection, Erie standup, striper, or other jigs may become necessary in these conditions.

 

Conversely, for extremely shallow presentations, slipfloats or other finesse presentations in calm or current-free situations, lightweight jigs are in order, certainly 1/8 ounce, sometimes 1/16, and perhaps as light as 1/32 ounce. Round, weedless, swimming, wobble, standup, bobber or other head styles may be applicable.

 

In most cases, you can get by with a plain round jighead, and in many instances, it will be among your best choices, but not always. Carry an assortment of sizes, shapes, and styles to match conditions, changing frustration and ineffectiveness into a productive combination.

 

Hook Sizes

 

Whichever jigheads you use, think about balanced or well-matched combos. That goes beyond head size (weight) and shape. Hook size must be effective as well. Jigs with hooks that are too small or too large cost fish. A big, heavy hook on a small jighead will look funny in a typical rigging, affect jig performance and action, and may not even fit inside a small walleye’s mouth. But it may be in order for catching big Great Lakes walleyes on a large jig.

 

Conversely, a tiny hook on a big heavy jig likely will fail to hold and present the bait properly and will straighten out when you’re fighting a walleye—if, in fact, it hooks the fish in the first place. A crappie jig may at first look like a good small walleye jig, but think again. Is the hook sufficiently large and strong enough to do the job?