Docks, boathouses, and piers become more important cover for largemouth bass as homes are built on lakes, reservoirs, and rivers. Shoreline development often means loss of natural cover like fallen trees, stumps, lily pad beds, and submerged weeds. Shallow-loving largemouths find steel, styrofoam, and pine board a suitable substitute. But like other popular patterns, success depends on timely tactics, attention to detail, and appropriate tackle.

When

Water temperatures above 40F.

Tackle

Tubes and prerigged worms: 6- to 7-foot medium-power spinning rod, medium-size spinning reel, and 8- to 12-pound-test mono.

Worms and soft jerk baits: 6 1/2- to 7-foot medium-power spinning rod, large capacity spinning reel, and 17- to 20-pound-test mono.

Jigs: 5 1/2- to 6-foot medium-power pistol grip casting rod, baitcasting reel with adjustable spool brakes, and 17- to 20-pound-test mono.

 

Presentation

In murky water, crankbaits or spinnerbaits retrieved parallel to dock posts or walkways often draw strikes. Twitching a minnowbait or popping a topwater works fine too, on calm days when bass roam the front edges of docks. Most of the time, however, bass hold back under docks where traditional casting techniques can't reach. Skip tube baits and plastic worms under docks with a sidearm cast, and trigger neutral bass with a slow, steady retrieve. Soft plastic jerkbaits, weighted or unweighted, can also be cast far back under docks for inactive largemouths. Let the bait settle to the bottom, give it a slight twitch, and repeat. Set the hook when you feel any resistance. Zipping 3/16- to 3/8-ounce jigs under docks takes more practice, but often pulls fish out of brush piles and weeds that other lures can't penetrate.