Equipment, Rigs, & Techniques

Before casting a spinning reel, the drag should be locked down tight. If the drag is in the normal fish-fighting position, the spool may slip during the cast, resulting in a loss of energy and distance. Line slipping across your fingertips also may cause a cut. Remember to loosen your drag after the cast, or you risk breaking the line while fighting a fish or having an unattended rod pulled into the water by a fish.

Line—Use only premium monofilament lines. The best brands are more consistent from spool to spool than bargain lines and usually have a thinner diameter for a given break-strength. Smaller-diameter lines offer less air-resistance during the cast, and less water-resistance when the rig is anchored on the bottom.

Powerful casts with line testing less than 20 pounds or so require a shock leader—a length of heavier line added to the end of your mainline. Shock leaders should be long enough to wrap around the reel spool 5 times, travel up through the guides, then back down the blank to the spool. Most surf fishermen prefer about 10 pounds of break-strength for every ounce of weight, but they rarely use line heavier than 40 pounds, even with 6- to 8-ounce sinkers.

Mechanics—Outfitted with the right equipment, most anglers can increase their casting distance by 50 percent or more by understanding how to maximize leverage and arc. Leverage is a combination of rod action, length of rod, and distance from rod tip to sinker. A 7-foot rod and a 2-foot drop, for example, would translate to 9 feet of leverage; a 10-foot rod and a 5-foot drop would deliver 15 feet. A rod with adequate backbone also increases leverage, but the effect is difficult to measure.

The arc of a cast refers to the path traveled by the sinker. The larger the arc, the greater the distance. If you begin a cast at 11 o’clock and end the forward flick at 1 o’clock, the cast achieves an arc of 60 degrees. Increasing the arc allows the rod to fully load for maximum energy and, in turn, greater distance. Most beginning distance-casters find a 150-degree arc that begins at 9 o’clock and ends at about 2 o’clock comfortable and effective.

Technique—The overhand thump is the most popular casting technique, though it provides less distance than more advanced casting styles, is the easiest technique to master, and the best for light tackle and crowded fishing situations. Begin with the rod tip pointed back and down, your elbows up. Right-handed casters should pull the rod butt toward the hip with the left hand, as the right hand pushes straight forward then stops suddenly at the forward flick.

Watch the best tournament casters and you’ll notice that all their casts seem to begin in slow motion. Speed gradually increases as the rod approaches the midcast position, then explodes so quickly at the forward flick that the blank appears as a blur. Notice, too, that weight is shifted from the back foot to the front foot during the cast, but no forward step is taken. Stepping toward your target usually results in a loss of power and control.

Starting a cast with the sinker on the ground increases leverage, arc, and acceleration. Begin as before with the rod tip pointed down and behind, but with the sinker laying on the ground. The length of the drop can be increased for better leverage, which also increases the arc, since the sinker travels a greater distance. The drag created by the sinker dragging on the ground at the start of the cast also loads the rod more quickly.

Rigging—Most freshwater anglers shorten the length of their leader or use no leader at all, when trying to increase their casting distance. This is a fine option in many situations but may not result in a natural presentation in others. Baits tethered on short leaders in slow current or still water may lie motionless on the bottom, while baits with a longer leader may move slightly to attract a fish’s attention.

The Long Ranger Pulley Rig allows anglers to use long leaders while achieving greater distance, keeping baits in good condition. The key feature of this rig is the hook shield that holds the baited hook tight against the leader during the cast, then releases it as soon as the rig hits the water. This results in less air-resistance, since the bait isn’t flailing around the leader, and it keeps baits from flying off the hook.

Using the right sinker also can add as much as 10 yards to a cast. Aerodynamic bank sinkers, with most of their weight concentrated at the bottom, cast much farther than round or oval designs. The Breakaway sinker by Breakaway Tackle features an aerodynamic shape and grip wires that dig into the bottom for anchoring, then fold back so the rig can be retrieved.

Baits should be as streamlined as possible. A large chunk of cutbait might be appealing to a big channel or blue cat but also flail about wildly during the cast, resulting in less distance and perhaps a lost bait. A small shad head, on the other hand, tucks nicely behind a hook shield and can be cast a long distance accurately. Better to have a small bait in the fish zone than a big bait on the beach.