Strategies For Long-Distance Catting

Rigging: “My go-to rig for long distance catting is a clipped-down or pully rig. The beauty is its versatility. It can be tied any length you’d like, and you can change hooks in seconds. I hook 75 percent of the fish that hit on this rig. To build one, start with a length of line, say 30 inches. To one end tie a cross-lock snap to which the sinker’s clipped. On the line above the snap, add an impact shield (available from Breakaway). Thread on a bead, a crimping sleeve (but don’t crimp), and another bead; then thread on a swivel and another bead. Tie on a second swivel to the end of the line.

“To the end swivel attach a 6- to 24-inch section of line, and tie the hook to the end of that line. Aerodynamically shaped sinkers like bank, bass-casting, beach bomb, or grip-styles offer the greatest distances,” Edwards says. His preferred baits are whole chubs and cut shad on Gamakatsu and Matzuo circle hooks.

Before casting, clip the baited hook onto the hook shield. This holds the bait tight in line with the leader during the cast and lets the sinker lead the cast. When the rig hits the water, the force on the hood of the impact shield pops it up, releasing the hook. Edwards also makes an inexpensive bait clip by bending a section of coat-hanger wire and attaching it to the line with heat-shrink tubing. After you cast, just give the rod a snap and the clip releases the hook.

Edwards has made other modifications to the pully rig. Instead of using a snap to hold the weight, tie in a loop at the end and add a section of lighter line, forming a weak link to the sinker. If the sinker becomes snagged, you can break the weak link, losing the sinker but saving most of the rig. Another adaptation is to add a second hook a couple of inches above the end hook. This quick-strike variation can increase hook-ups and reduce deep-hooking.

Casting: “A cast that’s easy for beginners to master is the Brighton,” he says. “It’s also called the unitech or high-inertia cast. It’s a good cast to use on crowded banks.” Edwards uses a clock face to describe the mechanics of the cast. (If you’re left-handed just reverse these steps.)

“Say the target is at 12 o’clock. Stand with your left foot pointing at 12 o’clock and your right at about 3 to 4 o’clock, with the sinker hanging halfway down the length of the rod. Swing the sinker in towards your foot and place it on the ground behind you at 6 o’clock. Move the rod tip behind you near the ground, slightly towards 5 o’clock. At this point, raise your left hand (on the rod butt) to head-high or higher, with your right arm bent.

“Without moving forward, look high above your target and execute the cast with a punch-pull (punch out with your right hand, pull in with your left hand towards your torso), increasing the speed of the cast until the stop-and-release. If it’s done correctly you should have just dropped your bait 100 yards offshore with no problem,” he says.

A note about setting the hook: The rig Edwards uses is technically a slip-set rig. When a fish takes the bait, the line slips freely until the second swivel stops at the impact shield. Edwards says that this is the point at which the hook sets. “Many anglers don’t realize how difficult it is to manually set the hook at those kinds of distances,” he says. “I’ve tested this by having someone hold the rod while I walk down the beach with the hook, say 100 yards or more. Then I’ll ask another buddy to hold the hook by just pinching it in his fingers. The person setting the hook can’t even pull it from the guy holding it in his fingertips.”

Practice is key to improving distance. Edwards: “Don’t worry about achieving long distances overnight. Get the technique down and in time distance comes. You might get some odd looks casting on an empty football field in the dead of winter, but no one sees you for who you are—a dedicated enthusiast honing your skills, not just for the upcoming season but for the rest of your life.”