Wind, Waves, & Walleyes

Wind Tactics

Proper application of wind tactics depends on a combination of several factors. First is safety; can you safely fish the area or are the waves too large and dangerous? Walleyes definitely bite in shallow water in giant waves, but it may not be advisable to tempt the fates in order to catch fish. Fortunately, in such conditions, the downwind sides of narrows are sheltered from the force of the wind itself, even while experiencing the full effect of current flow.

Second, how large is the area in question? Are the fish spread out, as along an expansive section of windblown shoreline? If so, longline trolling or fancasting tactics are most appropriate in order or cover an expanse of water. Or are they focused on specific small spots, like the crest of a reef, atop a small boulder pile, or on the end of an island? In this instance, casting to specific small, key spots usually is in order, perhaps while maneuvering the boat with a trolling motor, or perhaps more appropriately by casting from an anchored position, or even while walking or wading a shoreline.

Fancasting crankbaits—Cranks are among your most versatile presentations for covering water in windy conditions. Fortunately, shallow-running minnow-imitators are ideal for shallow water, or for running above the tops of weeds. Problem is, however, that many walleye cranks are so lightweight, particularly balsa models, that they’re difficult to cast into the wind. Neutrally buoyant minnow-imitators are a bit heavier and therefore easier to cast. They dive when retrieved, then hover at rest to tempt following fish.

When casting reefs where you need to reach a bit deeper, shad-imitating crankbaits that dive from 3 to 5 or 5 to 7 feet, depending on lip size, are dynamic choices. Cast ‘em out, crank ‘em back slowly, with an occasional pause. It’s OK to bang bottom a little, although active walleyes surging through turbulent water will hammer free-swimming lures. Match the primary forage—like silvery patterns for shiners or shad, perch patterns for perch.

When casting lightweight, wind-resistant crankbaits in windy conditions, it’s best to use a long, 7' to 7' 6" medium-power spinning rod, spooled with 8- to 10-pound mono, or 10- to 14-pound superline to enhance casting distance. Heavier lines or casting reels simply do not facilitate casting light lures into the wind.

Fancasting jigs—Jigs can be equally productive in windy conditions, and being less wind-resistant, they’re easier to cast if you need to throw upwind, such as from shore into the teeth of a gale. Almost any jighead will do, likely somewhere around 1/4 to 3/8 ounce, dressed with a fairly substantial plastic shad body or a 4- to 5-inch grub; you need a substantial target to help fish locate the bait, and if they’re up shallow, they’re likely aggressive enough to nail a large lure. No need to do the slow crawl, pause, hop, pause routine; shallow fish should be chasers, so a semi-swimming retrieve should produce. Fish it on similar tackle to what you’d use to cast cranks. Longer rods equate to longer casts.

Drifting with bottom bouncers, spinners, and nightcrawlers—A substantial wind blowing roughly parallel to (although somewhat into) a long stretch of shoreline is conducive to drifting the area with bottom bouncer-spinner-nightcrawler combos. Simply turn the boat sideways, lower your rigs over the upwind side, let out enough line for the bouncer to skip along bottom, and go. It’s a predominant tactic on the wind-blown plateau impoundments of the central and western prairies, with applications on large natural lakes with a heritage of windy walleye activity. Once the wind subsides, consider forward trolling the same rigs, using a bowmount electric motor for propulsion and control. A 6 1⁄2- to 7-foot, medium-power casting rod with 10-pound mono is perfect.